what are folks doing to clean the accumulated smoke tar from the honeycomb?
To add what may be an important detail, all of the smoke is from cutting through plywood.
I do have a strong vac system.
Thanks!
I have in the past used ‘spray and wipe’, let it sit for a little while, then pressure washed it off… came up much lke new
OK, thanks. “spray and wipe” seems to be a generic term for everything from baby bottom wipes to a hundred different spray bottle all purpose cleaners. The pressure washing is a great idea, I had not considered that but it solves the problem that the honeycomb is sharp enough that wiping with a rag just leads to ripping the rag apart. I suppose that leaves drying to prevent rust as the next step.
Thanks, I’ll see which of our spray cleaners works best and report back.
David
I tried Simple Green first and it got some, more when I scrubbed with a brush. I then tried Folex carpet spot remover. Pushing the bristles deep into the holes and moving round both directions got more. I’m sure that there is no longer enough tar remaining to stain the back of my cutouts, so I’m declaring “victory enough” for now. I really wanted to avoid the volatility of acetone or the volatility and expense of Goo Gone, which I think would have worked.
David
Yes, it is a generic grease cutting type of spray liquid here in Australia… I did think when writing it that it may be only an Aussie thing.. hence the ‘x’ marking… I hardly had to do anything mechanical, but, it sounds like you got is sorted… and yes the drying without rust may be an issue… The one I did this on, was alloy, so I didn’t have that issue.
This is what is in it, according to AI
The primary active ingredient in standard Australian Ajax Spray n’ Wipe multi-purpose sprays is Lactic Acid (2.4% w/w), which serves as a natural antibacterial agent to kill 99.9% of germs. [1, 2, 3, 4]
The complete breakdown of ingredients and their functions in the formula includes:
Cleaning Agents & Surfactants
- Sodium Dodecyl Benzene Sulphonate: An active surfactant that breaks down and lifts away tough grease and grime.
- Alcohols, C10-12, Ethoxylated: Wetting agents that help the solution spread evenly and penetrate dirt.
- Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES): A foaming agent that helps emulsify oils so they can be easily wiped away. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Solvents & Formula Stabilisers
- Water: The main liquid carrier used to achieve the correct product consistency.
- Dipropylene Glycol Butyl Ether: A fast-evaporating solvent that dissolves oily residues without leaving streaks.
- Ethanol: An alcohol-based solvent that aids in quick drying and surface clarity.
- Sodium Hydroxide: A pH adjuster used in small amounts to balance the formula’s acidity and ensure surface safety. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Fragrance
- Fragrance Essential Oils: Added blends (such as Lemon Citrus or Lavender) that leave a fresh, lingering scent after cleaning. [1, 2]
If you are checking due to a skin allergy or want to know if it is safe for septic systems, let me know so I can give you the specific safety details!
I put it out in the summer sun for the day, and that seems OK.
I will look for something a bit stronger for the next time I need to clean it. We do likely have the Ajax product here.
Thanks for the input.
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I had a smoldering fire (no open flame) that left a mess on the bed, and still had most of the previous mess too. I tried “clean-rite Purple Power” and it works very well. About 95% of the stuff was removed, everything but the very burnt stuff in the tight spaces of the honeycomb where the brush did not reach. Next time I’ll try a finer wire brush, but this is really very good. I washed off with a hose.
The previous gunk got thick enough on top that it left spots of varnish-like tar/goop on the back of pieces I cut. I tried acetone to clean it off of the wood, and it did not work at all. I did not expect that.